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The Ultimate Guide: Skincare and Makeup Over 40

Hi Bellas,

I've had a ton of makeup clients lately who need help reinventing their skin and makeup routines now that they've entered into the "mature skin" category.  I went through the same thing once I turned 40.  All of my old products just weren't looking that great on me anymore. If your old routine isn't working anymore more than likely it's time to switch it up.  Here are my tips and tricks and product recommendations for Makeup over 40.

1. Understand Your Skin Type

Mature skin can often lean towards dryness, but it’s important to identify if your skin is dry, normal, oily, combination, or sensitive to choose the right products.  You might have heard of "Skin Prep".  This is a vital part of your wellness routine and the better your skin, the better your makeup.
Byoma is one of my new favorite lines available at Ulta.  It's very affordable and I love how they clearly list all their ingredients.

Day & Night Routine: It's important to establish a consistent routine to keep skin hydrated and healthy.  Your routine may differ from day to night.  

Skincare Steps: An easy way to think of skincare is to apply products from lightest to thickest in terms of consistency.  Here's a general routine:  Cleanser, Toner, Treatment (serums, eye cream), Moisturizer (face and lips), SPF for daytime.   

You need to Exfoliate:  One step clients often skip even though we need more of it as we age is and we is exfoliation.  Our skin turns over less the older we get and we need to remove those dead layers.  Exfoliate 2-3 times a week with a chemical exfoliator (like a toner with glycolic or AHA/BHA acids) to gently remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. Avoid harsh physical scrubs.

Don't forget about Makeup Removal: Double cleansing is the best way to remove all traces of makeup without stripping your skin.  Start with a cleansing balm/micellar water/liquid makeup remover and then follow with a gentle cleanser (I love an oil based one) and lastly an exfoliating toner.  I love to use reusable face washing pads and cotton pads because they're better for your skin and the environment.  Go ahead and just use makeup remover wipes for travel only.

Skincare Recommendations:

• Professional Treatments: Consult a dermatologist or aesthetician for treatments like chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser therapy to address specific concerns like fine lines or discoloration.

CosRX is a great Korean line.  Have you gotten into snail mucin?  It's super hydrating.  I love incorporating these products in the Winter time.

2. Primer & Coverage 

• Primers for Mature Skin:

  • Primer preps the skin so makeup glides on better and lasts longer.  Think of it like priming a wall before paint.  Choose your primer according to your skin type.  Use a hydrating or glowing primer to smooth fine lines and create a radiant base.  If you have oily skin, use a mattifying primer.  You may have combination skin so treat each area of the face accordingly.
  •  Eyeshadow Primer: Use a primer specifically for the eyes.  This prevents your eyeshadow from creasing and makes colors pop.

• Color Corrector: Color correction is a Makeup Artist's secret for erasing tough areas like dark undereye circles or scars.  Neutralize discoloration with a creamy color corrector.  The most common colors you'll see or a peach or orange tone (for undereyes) or a green tone (for redness).  

Milani has a great blurring primer for pores and fine lines.  It also has a cooling effect which is really nice for summer.

• Foundation Application:

  • Opt for lightweight, hydrating foundations with a natural or dewy finish to avoid settling into fine lines.  I'm also a big fan of complexion products with built in skincare.  Here are some of my favorites:
  • Apply in thin layers using a damp sponge or brush, starting at the center of the face and blending outward.  Use tapping motions to build coverage.
  • Recommendations: Amazon Brush Set  Morphe or Real Techniques brushes/sponges (available at Ulta)
It's a bit of a splurge but one of my favorite foundations is the iconic Armani Luminous Silk.  They even come in mini sizes in Sephora.   I love the dewy finish, so beautiful on the skin.


Soft Contouring & Highlighting:
  • Contour with a darker shade to softly define features, focusing on the perimeter of the face. Use cream or liquid products for a natural look - look for terms like Balm, meaning it will be easy to blend.  If you want to make it last, follow a matching powder contour or bronzer to set.
  • Blush: Apply blush higher on the cheeks for a lifted, youthful look.  You can also apply on the apples of the cheeks for a rounder, fuller look.  If you're not sure what shade to get, I think a mauve pinky brown is flattering on most people.
  • Highlight: Use a light concealer to brighten your undereyes and center of your face.  If you like a glowy finish, you can use an illuminator on the tops of your cheekbones. For highlight I wouldn't go lighter than 1 or 2 shades brighter than your foundation tone as it emphasizes wrinkles more.  Again, look for products that have skincare built in such as a Serum Concealer.
  • Lip Color & Care:  Exfoliate and hydrate lips before applying color.  Next, use a lip liner to define and prevent feathering.  Opt for soft, hydrating lipsticks or glosses.
I love the Maybelline lifter liners and glosses.  They're very creamy, easy to apply and come in great shades.

4. Finishing Touches

• Setting Powder: Use a translucent powder sparingly to set makeup and reduce shine. I apply this at minimum on the undereyes to prevent creasing and the t-zone where you tend to have shine.

This ELF setting spray is great for dry skin which tends to crack.

5. Eye & Brow Focus 

• Brows: Fill and shape brows to frame the face. Use a brow pencil or powder for a natural look, and finish with a brow gel.

• Eyes:
  • Use neutral tones in a combination of matte and satin finishes.  Feel free to mix in pops of color.  Avoid heavy glitters because they emphasize texture and fine lines.
  • Steps:
    1. Apply eyeshadow primer.
    2. Use a matte crease color and a subtle shimmer on the lid.
    3. Add a darker shade to the outer corner for depth.
    4. Highlight the inner corner with a light shimmer.
    5. Apply shadow to the lower lash line for balance.
  • Finish with eyeliner and mascara.
    • Recommendations: Sephora 12-Hour Eyeliner, ELF Lash XTNDR Tubing Mascara.  Tubing mascara tends to smudge less and is easier to remover.
    • ELF Eyeshadow Palette:  You want a good neutral eyeshadow palette with mattes and shimmers.  Pick warm or cool undertones according to your eye color or skin tone.
This Elf Eyeshadow has everything you need - neutrals in lights, darks, and a mix of matte and shimmers.  And it's so affordable!

Recap:  Here are all the steps from skincare to makeup.  I always tell my clients, you can customize your routine according to day and night and how much you want to apply.  Feel free to skip a few steps or do them all.

Skincare → Primer → Foundation → Highlight/Contour → Blush → Setting Powder → Eyeshadow → Eyeliner → Mascara → Brows → Lip Liner → Lipstick → Setting Spray

For all product recommendations, visit my Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/renelynthomas

Questions? Email me at info@renelynthomas.com or book a one-on-one makeup lesson or shopping session via Zoom or in person: https://www.renelynthomas.com/private-lessons

FTC Disclosure:  Amazon Affiliate links included.

 


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